Marijuana growing methods

In early June, buy yourself some pre-fertilized potting soil.
 Although this is not usually organic this will be the easiest route and considering that the grower will probably be suffering from a condition of some kind, this will be better. It must have:
Sufficient nutrients. If you pick up a bag and it says "N-P-K = x%-y%-z%," it's a keeper. This is indicating the levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium within the soil.
A pH between 5.9 and 6.5. You can change it yourself, of course. Even the organic fertilizers you buy in the store tend to have pHs that are too low

Fill a small paper cup with enough of the soil to fill to just below the rim.Moisten the soil and plant the seed about one centimeter deep (1/2"). Do this for each seed you wish to grow. Place the cups in a warm (aprox. 70 degrees° F (21°C)) sunny area.
Water your plant and keep it warm. When your plant sprouts, keep the soil moist and let it grow until the seedling becomes root bound. The entire pot will be filled with roots and will hold the shape of the cup when removed

Fill a 5-gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom with the soil. Gently remove the seedling from the original container by turning it upside down and gently shaking the container. Gently insert the roots into the soil by making a small hole in the center of the 5-gallon container and cover the stem to about 2 centimeters (1") from the first set of leaves.
Water your plant until the soil is completely saturated and water only when the soil becomes dry to the touch. Fertilize after about one month with nitrogen fertilizer (follow the instructions for the fertilizer as if you were growing vegetables). Keep the plant in a sunny area at least 8 hours a day and use a natural pesticide if necessary.
You will hopefully have more than one seed to work with because this is the dicey part. If your plant starts to grow small pods that eventually split and release pollen, you have a male plant -- this contains less of the medicinal qualities and is mostly useful only for cooking. When a male appears, quickly separate it from the other (presumably female) plants and harvest it for cooking (simmering the dried plant material in butter is the most effective way).

Keep an eye on it. The arrival of the male plants (usually in August) will be your cue to fertilize for budding. Use a high Potassium plant food for this and discontinue adding nitrogen. Potassium accelerates the budding process and promotes bud production.

Be patient. When small clusters of white "hairs" appear you will know you have a viable female plant. Wait until the buds are completely mature, usually in mid October. The buds will have hairs that are all orange to a reddish-purple color and be covered in resin containing tiny tri-chromes. Use a magnifying glass and when these turn an amber color they are ready for harvest

Cut the plant at the bottom and place in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. The rafters of a barn or garage are usually good for this. By no means is any moisture good; mold will quickly grow and destroy the buds. Hang the plant upside down with newspaper underneath to catch any parts that fall off.
Cut off all the buds. After they have become "crispy" on the outside, put them into a large plastic bag. On the following day remove the buds and put them in a paper bag for another week or so.

Making sure the buds are completely dry, store them in mason jars for storage and place in a cool dark area.
This article in no way condones the illegal sale, cultivation, or use of this plant by anyone except those with a valid medical condition and a state issued license. This is intended as a reference only

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